A little background borrowed from Wikipedia:
Pozole (from Spanish pozole, from Nahuatl potzolli) is a traditional pre-Columbian soup or stew made from hominy, with pork, chile, and other seasonings and garnish, such as oregano, avocado, radish, lime juice, onions, salsa verde, salsa rojo. The type of pozole we ate was white or clear.
Buenavista de Cuellar is located in the state of Guerrero which is well-known for their Thursday Pozole. Wikipedia also cited Guerrero as typically serving breakfast pozole, and after this weekend...I will say, yes it's true.Moy (Nora's father), Karina, Gerado, and Carolina dropped me off at the downtown bus stop. In my search for my bus, I located the bus driver, Jose Luis, first. Our conversation was typical: You aren't from around here? No, I'm from Chiconcuac. (Okay, so I haven't actually said that.) Your spanish is really good! (Not true, this is smooth-talking mexican for-- your accent, my word!) Are those your friends? (Pointing to the other white people in the terminal. White+white=friends? ) Do you have a cell phone? (no) Do you have a telephone number? (no) Well, we can talk all the way to Buenavista. (Humm, but my ticket is for seat 27) Well, you can sit in row 1. (Row one filled before I chose to enter the bus.) I enjoyed reading Nora's husband Luis' book in seat 27. That is until with an hour left in the trip my bladder started calling out to me and I realized that this bus...didn't have a restroom. Thankfully, I did make it to Buenavista to pay my 2 pesos for a section of toilet paper.
Walking mexican-slow (the pace makes it possible to endure the heat during the day...and enjoy the air of the night) from the bus stop I passed a sign posted on a restraunt calling me in for homemade pozole. Breakfast being hours and hours before, I was tempted, but bought an agua de fresa (strawberry) in a bolsa instead and then stopped to see Luz. I met Luz for the second time the week before and had been wanting to get to know her better. Luz works half her time at the paletaria, where I bought my agua and the other half the little store across the street. She brought out a chair and we had a nice hour of conversation.
When I arrived at the Ramirez' house (Mode and Jose), Arely's Cumpleanos: birthday party had already started. I was delighted to find a huge pot (over 6 gallons) of Pozole on the stove and the women who work with Arely (collecting census information) already eating Pozole. I sat in between Jose, Arely's husband, and Jose Jaid, Arely's son with my bowl that was heaping (even after begging Arely and Mode to not serve me too much.) Jaid was equally helpful; I had added all of my toppings, yet he made a game of asking me if I wanted more of everything: cebolla? limon? rabanos? oregano? salsa? cebolla? limon?... Add to that two taquitos de potato; I took several breaks as I got to the bottom of the bowl. Jaid on the other hand, was repremanded and had his bowl removed and replaced with a new one after dumping well over a 1/2 cup of oregano in his shallow dish of blooming corn. Apparently he wanted the other well-known Guerrero pozole: verde.
That's just the beginning of my weekend of Pozole. Around 9 o'clock the neighboring families arrived, which must have been about the third group of people to come and leave the fiesta. I had yet another bowl of Pozole. Thankfully, this one was was shallow--er. The evening ended with the charming "las mananitas" and then a cute playful display by Arely and Jose over her tres leche.
I awoke to the usual Buenavista morning chorus of dogs, donkeys, neighbors, birds, church bells, and Delia sweeping the street. An hour or so later I saw Delia and her aunt Victoria headed to the market so I slipped downstairs and out the door, telling Jose and Arely where I was headed on my way out.
Sandra, here are the morning market discoveries: miniture mangos, chicken for the afternoon quesillas Delia had invited me for that afternoon, buenos dias to: the boy with the purple avacados and the amazing smile, Hermando (with his usual dirty shirt--across from the computers, remember?) and his wife (Rosalba or something like that? They have a pizza parlor now..which Arely ordered the week before. It tasted...like Mexico after covering it with hot sauce.) Last week during my market visit with Mode I talked to: Hermando, queso, need I say more? Remember Freddy the taxista? His brother Hermando works at the tortillaria. Marco at the jugos in the mercado. Marco from New Mexico. In addition: Dona Columba, Don Pedro, Laykin's admirer, Tony the neighbor boy, Lola is working at a new restraunt next to the computadores, Margarita, Gerado, his sister at the computadores, etc.
We must have arrived back at the house at 10am to Arely calling everyone in for a breakfast of...yes, Pozole. Erika and Nacho, Ruben and Delia, Sonia, and all the kids sat down with their bowls. Delicious...but ya...I was quite gratefuly for Delia confirming the invitation to eat at her house that afternoon. It was a wonderful two hours or so of the familiar kitchen activity, a meal with just the two of us and talking about family, and later Ruben joining us, the Mexico vs. Paraguay 6-0 futbol game, an the slightly naughty antics of Alexandre which are easily covered by his ever-present smile.
And when I returned back to Mode's kitchen, Gabi and Jaid were sitting at the table with bowls of: Pozole.
I took the Monday morning, 5am bus back to Cuernavaca. A small bus to the market. Another small bus back to Chiconcuac. Three house of traveling: I treated myself to a taxi back to the house, dug for several minutes for the pesos to pay my fare, and was so very very greatful to open the door to a hot hot shower before I started work.
The weekend of Pozole looks to be turning into a week. Today at Moy's house Nora asked what was on the menu for tomorrow's dinner. Nora and I both started laughing when we were told: Pozole.